Sunday, September 30, 2018

Tracing Forms

This is the forms sheet taped to a window, with three sheets of plain paper taped to it. Here, I'm going to trace form #9. I needed as many as 4 sheets of letter-sized paper to cover some of the forms. The multiple sheets of paper are similar to the way I had to arrange the forms that were printed out on the computer's printer on my last build.

It is, as a Great Man once said,  "A Pain In The Keister"

I also had tracing paper, but I contact-cement the paper to the wood, and it shows through too much.
I marked the rocker measurement, center line, and sheer line on each form. According to the plan, there are some amazing spaces between forms, like 17". I'm curious to see how that works out with 3/16" thick strips.


Thursday, September 27, 2018

Bow Section

After slogging along and following instructions without really understanding, I came up with this apparatus:
Only after putting it together did I understand how it works! Hull strips come into the bottom, and deck strips come into the top, which would otherwise be "hanging in space" without them. The purpose and position on the "plug" between the top & bottom sections only became apparent when I actually made it. I got a better understanding of the "musts" and "cants" once I figured it out. 
The hot-melt glue joint between the temporary form and form #1 seemed a little wiggly, so I h.m. glued in some blocking. I think I can make the plug look a little more aesthetic by coping and sanding.

Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Challenging

I still keep cogitating about this project.
Others have said that "Rob Macks' instructions make more sense once you actually start working". His instructions are actually quite thorough-what he tells you will work, but I'm only obtaining an understanding gradually, as I go along. I'm more used to understanding more before I start, then carrying it out. 
For example, the Stern Section. I heeded the advice to think of the first attempt as a practice run, which is good, because it came out lousy. I thought I'd learned enough to go "for good", but I made more errors, and that came out crummy, too. I guess I'm not used to the do-overs.
I'm reminded of my first build, where I tested everything-dry clamping before glue, etc. I wasn't spoiled by thinking that I had enough "know-how" to get things right the first time, so I proceeded very carefully. This time, I'm expecting too much of myself. I need to return to a "beginner mentality".

Sunday, September 16, 2018

Strip Bending For The Tail Section

Rob's advice to view the first attempts to build the bow and stern sections as "practice" is very good. I learned and remembered a great deal about heat bending and hot glue:
1. You have to over-bend all strips much more than it looks like you have to. Even after cooling, they "neck back" and try to straighten themselves.
2. Hot melt glue will not hold a strip down that isn't bent enough to lie against the form naturally, without force. Neither would a staple or a brad.
3. In the past, I haven't really "obeyed" the forms completely-some strips pulled off the forms, and it was acceptable. I won't get away with that here 😏
4. I am certainly going to have to bevel the strips as always.

Looking at my Workmate gave me an idea:
I shift the C clamps around until I get the desired bend. It holds the work nicely, unlike clamping one end and holding the other. I can really hit it with the heat gun without burning myself.

Saturday, September 15, 2018

O.K, I'm Actually Building It

Incrementally and gradually, I got more used to the plans, after reading the manual and watching the video. I finally decided to go through with it. It was also helpful to find Etienne's webpage about building one of these, since he is  a builder who isn't afraid to deviate from a design.
Tracing forms from the originals is a pain, but I nevertheless did it, and a morning's work resulted in this apparatus:
As "everyone" says, Rob's instructions make more sense when you actually put your hands on the work. The half forms and the tapering remind me of the bow form of a Greenland kayak. I actually used hot-melt glue, and the 1/2" plywood called for. I'm glad that I used the plywood, because the plies help show tapering.

Thursday, September 6, 2018

New Ideas

I had, after my last build was completed, decided not to build another kayak this winter, however, I managed to find excuses to do just that.
After messing around with Kayak Foundry quite a bit, I got better at using KF, but not much better at designing a kayak. I seem to keep going back to a shape that looks much like the last one, and there is still a disconnect between the technical numbers, aesthetics, and the message board comments. I decided to put that project on hold. I don't want to put another whole winter's effort into a possibly flawed design.
I started looking for published designs, but didn't really find any, until I started looking at Rob Macks' "Dark Star" baidarka. I had previously shied away from those things, because they looked like a lot of trouble to build, but I came up with reasons to try it:
1. It will be 15' 6" long\
2. I can probably build it ultra-light.
3. Its something besides the S.O.S.
I checked out the paddler  weight requirements, and weighed myself with gear: 167. The upper limit for the design is 180. I don't want to build another boat bigger than necessary, and now I may be able to achieve my years-old goal of building a "grab-and-go" kayak.
I ordered his plans and video: $172 
9-9
When I got the plans, I was pissed!
He doesn't have full-sized forms. There is what appears to be a picture of forms stacked up (the view that everyone seems fascinated with), with markings to use on tracing paper!  No waterline marks. No rocker measurement printed on the forms, you have to look at the full-boat diagram. The video is slightly helpful, because his written instructions are notoriously hard to understand.
I felt like returning them, but as I get used to the differences, I'm now thinking that I'll probably go through with it.
9-11
I still keep getting pissed off, the more I read the manual. It isn't very good for the experienced builder, who wants to know the basic principles and differences between building the baidarka and building a Greenland kayak. Its very step-by-step, but his way.