Starting To Strip

I started with a 1/2" pine strip. I'd have liked to use a full-length strip, but went for two scarfed together. For this build's scarfs, I decided to try making the scarf joints though the thickness of the strips, instead of across the width. On my O.I, the scarf joints looked good until the epoxy went on, but they stood out a little when finished. This first strip is coved but planed flat on the hull/deck joint side. The usual fretting about straightness.

I have been told, more than once, that "cheater" strips are too difficult to make when using cove-and-bead strips. I decided to try it anyway, since I couldn't see using so much Brute Force  (against that slim first strip) to make the next strip conform to the bow & stern curves. I tapered the bead side of a short strip, and sanded a new bead. A scrap of coved material made a good sanding block.

Glued in. Scraps of beaded material are used as cauls.

Milling The Strips

I decided to actually go for cove-and-bead strips, in hope that they might actually do something for the appearance. As expected, they caused a few "issues". 
Somehow, re-sawing 17-19' boards was easier last year. Vaclav recommends milling the strips a bit over 1/4" in thickness, and its a good plan-but its hard to center the re-saw blade, even when using a thin-kerf rip blade. I made a few blunders, and ended up with strips just 1/4" in thickness, after planing. this made it much more critical to cut the coves & beads exactly centered.

Router table setup for beads. This went fairly well, except that I had to re-check the setup every few strips. At one point, the router bit worked loose & launched!
Same setup for coves, but with the featherboard's positions reversed.